Mark Bendys' Warn M10000 Rebuild.

Assembly

Motor being assembled. Press bearing into ally adapter plate first, then slide the rotor in. (mine just fell on). Com side had to be pressed on.

 

Make sure the plastic locating tab on the motor armature stud lines up with the recess on the brush assy. Also, make sure the 2 mating surfaces are clean & free of paint or corrosion. This is due to this surface being the earth return for the motor. That may be up to 700A!

This stuff is conductive grease. I've put it on the mating surfaces to reduce the corrosion in there as well as to increase the current / reduce voltage drop across there.

Try to bend / massage the armature bars to so they sit perfectly flat both ways. This will allow max current to pass through without generating to much heat. Obviously, don't forget to put the screw in snug.

Dont forget to snap back the brushes before you put the cover on. One complete motor. Sealed up with a fine bead of silicone. The type I used is similar to windscreen sealer where it does not set hard, stays gooey and will allow for minor movement.

Never seize is great stuff. Used it on most bolts. Here is the motor adapter plate going on to the side of the main housing.

 

 

Then greased up the spool bearing & slid the coupler on.

OK, now for the brake assembly. Straight part of the spring fits into a hole on the inside.

Other turned in end, fits into a slot in the main shaft.

Then it all slides together. Still have to work out what sort of pre-load to set up.

The cone / cam that moves, place a small amount of grease on the mating surfaces & inside. Pay particular attention, not to get grease on the cone surface.

Brake shoes fitted & retained.

Found it easier to set this up inside the drum. Holding the hex shaft on the other side of the drum with a clamp, I was able to wind up the cone clockwise photo end until I felt the spring didn't have much more in it. (but not until it bound up). Then pushed on the last cam, washer and cir clip. I've simulated it working correctly in the garage, now I hope its enough to hold the car & not drag to much while winching.

Thanks Gordon for spinning up the replacement washer for me.

Grease up the plastic bearing & the surfaces that takes the load from the spool.

Those 2 lugs on the brake go in 90 deg to the lugs on the motor coupler.

You can test the brake now using an 8mm spanner. Hold the spanner still, by hand turn the spool. Spool should drag lightly on winding, and lock the opposite way.

Again, opposite side, grease up the plastic bearings & the surfaces that takes the load from the spool.

Support rods & opposite end assembled, waiting for gearbox.

Starting the gearbox, place the stainless wear plate in first.

Warn recommended Aeroshell 17, but Nulon gear is good quality, and Id thought id give this a go.

Dont forget to put in the first drive gear.

After the first gears are put in the housing, I covered the ring gear in mobil 1. Why? I had it laying around. Also if you use heavy grease, you will never be able to pull the rope out by hand in free spool.

After that is dropped in, I pushed in the 2 retaining clips. Were set up like piston rings, opposite each other.

Second gear set greased.

And in.

Don't stress if this ring gear falls in. Its supposed to. I was expecting to use a press to get it back in, after all the effort to get it out.

Then I found this. The moulded teeth on the ally housing that holds the spool bearing fits into the gears.

So, grease the outside to stop moisture getting in again. The recess on the ring gear (above photo) goes to the bottom / or in first.

Third gear set, geased.

And in.

Don't damage one of these! They are worth over $140!!!! This one was badly rusted and half the chrome had fallen off. I dropped it off at Ace Metal finishers in Adelaide. Not the best job. They just linished some of the surfaces & re-chromed it. Due to the linishing, its now a tad under size.

Detent ball, spring, grub & o-ring for the clutch handle.

Hopefully this will stop the water.

And finally together with new greased gaskets, ready to go into the car.

 

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 The above companies I have no association with. I spent ages ringing & looking around Adelaide for people to help me out with this project that I felt comfortable with that they would do a decent job.

So far Warn US sent me to ATECO Equipment for spare parts. ATECO then emailed Warn US, and then returned a rude & abrupt phone call. ATECO manager has since mailed me back to work things out, and have come up with some of the spares I needed. Unfortunately, there is no stock left for the main label.

Cheers for looking

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