Savage, FSS, MkII, Accutrigger mod.

After i read the numerous write ups about this trigger system, I had to try one out. The front mag well retaining screw (one on the RHS that the front take down screw goes into) needs a roll pin pushed out first before you can undo it!! 3.5mm punch will do it.

Trigger unit below, showing safety side, and adjustable trigger spring at rear. The factory setting is the lowest adjustable pressure, still to high for some.

This side shows the cir clips that can be removed to disassemble trigger assembly. RHS: safety, Bottom: trigger, LHS: sear. Speaking of sear, there is not much of it, as you can see through the sight hole. When removing the clips, keep your finger pressure on them to stop them shooting to infinity............. & beyond.



Once the cir clip & trigger pin have been removed, the trigger will drop out. If you have noticed the discolouration on the spring, the photo was taken during the assembly.


The trigger spring unscrews out the top of the trigger. This spring is unlike a normal trigger spring where you can cut 1/4 to 1/2 a coil off, reassemble try it for pressure & trigger reset, then cut another 1/4 off if not sufficient. This spring  has a locating pin bent into it as seen further on.

I used a pen torch with a fine pointed flame to change the length. The torch was pointed where the screwdriver is pointing. Heated the spring up quickly to a very dull red. It is to be heated quickly with a gutsy pen torch as if its done slowly, the heat will transfer to the rest of the spring and turn it to a piece of scrap wire. Within a split second of the dull red appearing,  push the locator in a hole in the work bench (to compress the heated coils) then spray CRC on it before it cooled down to re-temper it.



Next was the safety spring. The safety was hard to push fwd, and an audible "click" was heard. I tried to compress the spring RHS radius, thinking it would stop the click. I didnt, but made it easier to push forward.

Next I tried to reduce the angle of the cam. Did quieten it a small amount, but found the "click" was coming from movement of the cam on the lever. Fixed this by putting the cam, & leaver on the pin, and slowly placed pressure on the cam in a vice to stop the movement of it.

Also with the above photo, you can see the sear is tiny. There is no way I would want to play with this (as tempted as I was) as its more than sufficient to do what myself or the rifle are capable of. It was short, clean, and crisp. The silver triangular part is part of the accutrigger / safety (if I can say that without offending glock). If the rifle is knocked hard enough for the sear to let go, it falls on the silver part and will not release the pin. When the first part of the trigger is pressed, that silver part moves forward into the trigger itself, then allowing the sear to fall all the way.

Below is the swarf blown from the front thread after the roll pin was removed, then the front screw taken out. The roll pin goes through the action, barrel, and into the front screw.


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